North Holland Boat & Bike trip - 163 miles

FRIDAY 12th June.


Our BOAT and BIKE North Holland trip, started from Amsterdam on Saturday afternoon, so we flew a day early staying at Hotel RHO.  From the airport it was easy to catch a train to the city centre and walk 10 mins to our hotel. First impressions of Amsterdam? Not great. Very busy, every other shop was fast food, litter everywhere, and bikes (especially ebikes) all whizzing around. You needed eyes in the back of your head!

The reception area of hotel RHO, 
was once a theatre.

After we checked in, we turned left, walked over a couple of canal bridges…. And we found ourselves in the Red Light district. Not quite the plan!  We were on the look out for a cafe for a cup of tea …… strangely didn't find one!   We had been warned that “coffee” shops sell something a bit stronger than coffee, and have done so for the last 50 years.  The smell of whacky backy definitely evident in Amsterdam. And how the prostitutes can sit in a window advertising their trade is beyond me. Or do they have no choice? Are they sex slaves? Very sad if that is the case.


We eventually found a cafe, in Dam square right next to our hotel, beside a huge sculpture dedicated to the fallen.  A meeting point for people, and pigeons.







Dam square, our tea stop, the sculpture to the right
( too tall to fit in the photo). 


My friend Gill had been to Amsterdam just a week ago, and recommended a fish restaurant which we booked for the evening. The walk to that area was much quieter, more upmarket and a very nice meal too. Strange to think that she and her husband were here just a few days ago.😆






Light fading for our walk back to our hotel.




SATURDAY 13TH JUNE

We spent the morning strolling along canals in search of an "open boat" tour. We ended up back at the station where it seemed that all the boat trips started. A few photos enroute and of our canal trip.



these tiny cars very popular. 

The impressive central station building The flowery boats offered a 90 min canal tour,
but we opted for 60 mins, which was plenty. 


It was sunny, but a cool day.

Plenty of examples of "wonky" buildings
whose foundations have moved due to the ground conditions. 

going under several bridges in quick succession. 


Back to our hotel to collect our luggage, then back to the station after lunch, and took a 15 min bus trip  to where our ship, De Willemstad  was moored.

A short cruise out of Amsterdam before dinner to moor up in Zaandam for the evening.  Our captain is a lady who has led this cruise for many years.


Our Captain who spoke excellent English, and German 
as well her native Dutch.

We were allocated a table for dinner to join Spanish Maria and Osama, (Osama from Kuwait originally) and Gail and Kent from Seattle. We had to keep this arrangement for the entire week….. including breakfast, which we felt was unnecessary, and meant not much chance to mix with others. 


(But we did chat pre dinner often with Martin and Verne from Bruges, and also a  group of 8 friends from Newbury area. The Germans were pretty miserable, the Dutch tended to stick together, and a group of 8 Americans made no effort to mix with anyone all week.)


Martin and Verna from Bruges.


After our first night's dinner, an evening walk with Hugo, into Zaandam. (Our ride leaders are Hugo and Piet. Hugo serves the English and Dutch speaking guests and Piet the Germans.)


Zaandam mooring


This shop front looking a bit like lace

A rather unique hotel in Zaandam, based on the architecture of 
traditional timber houses, which are mostly green
due the colouring from  the metal in the paint.
( but not normally piled on top of each other!)



SUNDAY 14th Zaandam to Alkmaar 29 miles - FIRST DAY OF CYCLING



7.15 breakfast!! Our first bike trip started at 8.45, with a pack lunch in our panniers. A cool morning of just 13 degrees. It was WINDY too! The benefit would be that the windmills we were visiting would be turning. 😂 About half of the cyclists had brought their own bikes, mostly ebikes, and other hired mostly ebikes. It seemed pathetic in such a flat country. We hired manual bikes.


A steep "push" to start off with a tyre channel in the steps

Initially an industrial area but a wonderful smell of chocolate! A very easy ride then on quiet streets to a Windmill museum (moved from their original locations), where we spent about an hour enjoying a walk. We got there early and avoided several coach loads of tourists, arriving by the time we left.


Block paths were the norm whenever we passed 
through villages. A massive industry!


Zaanse Schanse Windmill museum. Most of these
provided power for milling and grinding, rather than moving water. 

The traditional Green paint again. 

Liked this tiled wall on the side of the shop. 





We spotted our ship passing on the canal, as we were about to get back on our bikes.


Back on our bikes, and endless canals and waterways created along the “polder” landscape, of reclaimed land. Cattle grazing on some of these islands of grass. A tiny ferry too for about 2 mins, and passed through the pretty village of De Rik.


Hugo, one of the guides, passing by. "See you at the ferry" he called out.
( he had a ebike)





Village of De Rik


We were on the look out for somewhere to sit to have our picnic lunch, out of the wind. That wasn't easy. We finally sat on a grassy bank (with a house behind for shelter).  A duck and her little geese swam past whilst we sat there. 😊

Had our picnic sitting on grass next to a Dyke sheltered from the wind!


A few miles on, we stopped once more to visit a working water windmill, with Archimedes screw, to pull up the water to be pumped into the channel. Years ago, the water would be pumped on to the next windmill etc (many working together to keep the water at the correct level)




Lost count of how many bridges we have
crossed and it's only day one.

Jacket zipped up to the top. It was cool mainly due to the wind. 

At this bridge, with about 3 miles to go,
we met the Spanish couple we had had dinner with. Their phone power
had just died.... so didn't have any navigational to get to the ship.
(they were grateful to follow us ).

Beautiful bridge to take us now to the edges of Alkmaar to join our ship.

Pleasant ride back passing houses with Piet Oudolf style planting
Back in time for tea and biscuits (no cake!)

Since were riding a loop starting here again tomorrow,  the bikes were all padlocked together for the evening. 

At 7.30pm a walk through Alkmaar with Hugo, telling us a little of the history of the town, including the way they used to barter for the price of cheese in the old market building.  ( Friend Sue Poley was here a few days later, for the "weighing of the cheese ceremony")!  We walked through a "Pride" party going on, and over a rainbow crossing too, to reach the older part of tow, once more with beautiful buildings. 




The green house once of the oldest, built 1500.


MONDAY 15TH ALKMAAR LOOP - 25 miles (and a few extra since we went wrong from the start!)



8.30 start today, since we needed to get back to the ship before 2.30, when we cruised north to Den Helden.  We had a disastrous start by heading off in the wrong direction…. Back to the start 45 mins later.😅 Now need to peddle faster than we would have liked.


A very Colourful cafe! With some rather unusual signage for Herren und Damen.😧





Caught up with Hugo and others in Bergen, at Ruin Church then a detour to see the Villas built by wealthy Bergen merchants. 

Bergen Ruin, where we finally caught up with everyone. 


A quick detour now to see some of the homes built by some of the wealthy Bergen merchants. 


We set out own pace once more, to take our time exploring. Many of the others were on ebikes so had a better pace with the wind. 



From Schoorl, we turned into a Nature Park, and nice to have the protection of some trees for while, until we emerged into the open Dunes area.  A chance for a couple of drone shots, as long as I kept it below the trees otherwise might have blown away.💨









We stopped for a look at the North Sea, but weren't tempted to go in.  There were a few diggers constantly moving the sand back to where it should be, and one man with a shovel and a wheelbarrow which made us laugh. Where do you start? 😂



Back to the boat in Alkmaar in good time for the 2.30 departure, and a beautiful sunny afternoon cruise to Den Helder. 






Mooring up in Den Helder, for an evening walk after dinner
to the shipyard area. 


An interesting evening walk through the dockyard area which included a submarine and 400 years old shipwreck found under the sea when land was reclaimed. They were able to age the wreck accurately after finding a coin.




Hugo was quite an extrovert, and very knowledgeable on history. 



This was built for the Russians, but never delivered.

The 400 year old wreck, discovered when pumping out for the Dykes. 

TUESDAY 16TH. Den Helder to Texel loop - 32 miles



We were advised to get the 8.30 ferry, since they next one was an hour later. A bit mad to start with, as we joined the queue along with hundreds of other bikes. I think many were going to work for the day on the island. But of course they all dispersed soon after we arrived. We joined the coastal path on the East heading north... straight into the wind. 😖

A beautiful start at 08.30 on the ferry to Texel.
(pronounced Teshel)



We soon rode along this path next to the sea straight into
a head wind. It went on a for about 4 miles. 😕



A big industry here in sheep, who are a particularly tough breed. 
The live on the Dykes and keep the grass cut.


A photo opportunity.
(I captured lots on video of course)

Finally we were relieved to leave the coastal path turn inland, hoping for a rest-bite from the wind, as we passed an area of lakes.



The Dutch certainly all take care of their gardens.

Village of Oost. 

We saw several of these barns, which are flat on the back
as if they have been cut in two. 

Not so watertight any more. 

A church as we arrived into a village.
Decorated outside, but a very plain roof inside. 

Next to the church

The busy town of Den Burg, where we had a wander and a drink.

It was warm now, so iced tea for me, whilst John
gulped down his beer. 

We chose a spot next the cemetery for our lunch today with the luxury of a  bench! 

A pleasant second half to the day on Texel through another area of National Park, and beaches to our right. (still not tempted!) 


We saw some of the other ship riders, who went left where we branched off right. We were aiming to get the 3.30 ferry (otherwise 4.30),  but spotted an Ice Cream shed and screeched to a halt.

Self service Mr Whippy. Just the job!

We suddenly felt like we had to rush to get the ferry, and got there just in time, to board for 3.30 for the 15 min trip back to Den Helder. Then we could relax. 

Dinner was always at 6pm, and with no walk planned for tonight, since we spending 2 nights here, Hugo had prepared a film of the first 2 days of our trip.  (A bit long since it was 30 mins, covering just two days, but enjoyable enough. He uses his iphone to capture everything on the go, and also for the edit. So, a bit whizzy and zoomy at times, but he did well.  The second half on the final night would be an hour!)

John and I went out for a short walk after the film. Lovely evening light. 




WEDNESDAY 17TH. STAVERN LOOP, FRIESLAND. 34 miles


The Captain started the engines at 5.30am for a 4 hour cruise of the Ijsselmeer Sea which crosses the border from North Holland to Staveren in Friesland. (Both areas of the Netherlands).  The famous Black & White Friesian cows originated here. We will see plenty today. 😂



It was a gloomy morning as we arrived in Staveren harbour.

We initially headed down the coast and guess what? It was windy! Again!!


This  stone, has an inscription, in Dutch of course.
But the translation is "I'd rather be dead than a slave".

Wish you could  hear the wind blowing!

No signs of any cafes this morning, so an early picnic lunch
on this bench next to a canal. Cheese & Ham again.😂




photo stop. Rain jackets on now, for the next hour.😖

It was a few miles in the rain before we reached a town square in Workhum. A beautiful town, and the sun came out!  

Workhum

The waitress suggested this cream cake. It was very delicious. I had a  ginger tea with fresh ginger spiraled onto a stick.



Martin and Verna, (from Bruges) arrived just after us, soaking wet, since there jackets were not quite up to the job.   But the sun was out now, and our jackets all dried over our bike handlebars, whilst we went to look at the Jopie Huisman Museum. (died in 2000). A famous Dutch Artist who painted still life mostly. The detail of  his work was incredible.

The socks below, his painting of them above.




Workhum, with its buildings leaning forward. This is how they
were built to avoid rain dropping down the front elevation. 
(leaning forward is good.... leaning sideways, not good)

passing through a tiny village. Water and boats and bridges
in every place we went. 

and a  bit later. 

Just some cows, but the landscape is lovely.

 A pleasant ride to the harbour town of Hindleloopen. We got off the bikes for short walk here too.

Hindleloopen.

Hindleloopen.

Hollyhocks growing outside to match the pottery.

This is famous for colorful painted furniture.
But we didn't go in, as time was getting on. 

The route continued following the coast to Stavoren.  After dinner, John and I went for a stroll with our cameras, as once more the evening light was beautiful, and loads of tall ships in harbor. 

Our ship behind is quite a contrast to the old ones. 

These houses had looked rather dull as we arrived this 
morning, but now very colourful.






A dramatic end, but no sunset. 

There was  a DJ on the ship from 8.30.... gave that a miss. 😉 But people did dance apparently. 

THURSDAY 18TH MEDEMBLIK TO ENKHUIZEN - 34 miles

Another early morning cruise, leaving Friesland back to North Holland,  brought us into Medemblik for 8.30, and we had to be off the ship by 9am. 


No harbour, just a simple jetty, and our bikes taken down a steep ramp, from the top deck, by the crew. 

arriving by ship into Medemblik

Warm from the word go rising to 30 later. At last!😎
Martin, from Bruges getting ready to go ( wife Verna behind in a dress over her cycling shorts).
Gail and Kent from Seattle, our dinner table sharing couple.
( a green teeshirt today... not the yellow one which he wore every
day so far, including for dinner 😅)

A short loop of the town before or official route and we chatted with the owner of this pretty garden.

After I took this I spotted the man behind the tree.
Got chatting. He is the owner and recently drove the entire 
length of Britain.

It was mostly agricultural area to Opperdoes and with lighter winds today, the chance for a few drone shots.



to the left a field of flowers, I think Ranulculus.



Then through Twisk with beautiful old farm buildings along the street.





A tea stop at bakery in Wognum with home made chocolate cake. 



It didn't taste quite as good as it looked, but passable.

On to the city of Hoorn where we parked bikes in the main square and walked to a floating cafe. Apple Haven, where we had Poke, like a deconstructed Sushi. 


We hadn't realised the restaurant was floating, until 
someone quite heavy stepped on, and it all moved😂 


Poke bowl. Very fresh and tasty. 

Hoorne

Hoorne

A fair few miles on a dyke next alongside the water called Markemeer, before reaching Enkhuisen, where our ship was moored for the night.


Enkhuisen




But first we spent an hour at a Living Museum called Zuiderzeem Museum. Had a bit of trouble finding it, which seemed ridiculous, but the signage was poor. It was scorchio by now.


Zuiderzeem Museum.

Zuiderzeem Museum.

Zuiderzeem Museum.

Zuiderzeem Museum.

Zuiderzeem Museum.


Dinner, then a walking tour with a local guide. Amongst other things he explained about one long narrow straight street where ropes used to be made. A big industry for all the ships.



FINAL DAY CYCLING. VOLENDAM TO AMSTERDAM 32 MILES ( 38 DEGREES!)

 



Breakfast  cruise of a couple of hours to Volendam. A pretty harbour town,Bikes off the boat via stairs and ramps today… all crew hands on deck. The group (60ish) were all asked to ride together to a cheese farm for tastings.


Volendam had a few similar sculptures.

Edam and  Gouda Cheese production talk. 
The shop had cow, sheep, and goats cheese 
in a huge variety of flavours. 
(but with 38 degrees forecast, didn't buy any!)

We got ahead of the group, to ride on our own along a long dyke to then join a causeway to the island of Markham. It was a side wind .. wooppee! So kept us cool. 



Causeway to Markham island

The main village of Markham looking good. 

A black swan and 4 signets as we arrived.
Never seen black signets before. 


Markham harbour. The bike rack on a slope.

Our waiter was also the chef who made this 
delicious cheesecake. We shared 😇😂.

A bit of backtracking across the causeway and dyke before we turned inland, passing some cows drinking from the water channel. Quite a few horses in this area too. 


A few miles until we came to a ridiculous tunnel on our route to a village, then back again. RING RING RING the signs said.  School kids lunch break so all a bit manic. They didnt slow down at the corners.



Along some very hot cycle paths, and on the look our for some shade to have our picnic.  There really wasn't any, so I just sat on some slightly damp straw until a bit of tree shade.



A pleasant final approach into North Amsterdam with houses along the right of the road, all with a bench outside, and water to our left.



these Cargo bikes with kids, and or dogs
were very popular. 


Getting closer and our routes will take us to a free ferry to 
cross a canal to the Central Station... we hope.


The road literally goes straight onto the ferry.
Getting on  was easy, getting off a bit more interesting with
motorbikes revving engines, all desperate to get off. 


Just 2 miles to go, to hand our bikes back to the ship's crew.... and relax. Phew. A scorching day. 


Dramatic thunderstorms after dinner, and again during the night.  (friend Sue, also in Amsterdam in her caravan, reported that it was rather loud too!)


A really lovely holiday, with lots of interest every day. Our only complaint was the wind, and guess that's why many ride ebikes.