Vienna to Budapest Cycling - June 2025 ,197 miles

We booked this holiday as self guided, with luggage transfer, via Headwater Holidays. But before we started our 6 days of cycling, we had a extra day in Vienna. (As well as an extra day in Budapest at the end of our trip.)

17th/18th JUNE

Our first hotel was "Courtyard" by Marriot, a very modern building in a commercial park area on the outskirts of Vienna. It was conveniently just 5 mins walk to the U-station to take us into Vienna in 15 mins. It was also very close to the start point of our cycle route, infact a cyclepath was directly outside of our hotel.

the greenery of the planting was done very well.

Our station, Krieau, was on the Purple Line U2
All very easy to navigate at every station.

First impressions! Very nice
as we left the train at Karlsplatz.

It was unfortunately a very hot day, mid 30's, and so we were always on the lookout for shade. We walked a good number of miles, taking in the sites of Vienna.

The essential slice of Sachertorte.
(the only one we had! got that wrong!!)

We considered a horse and cart ride, but decided to just walk.

A lavish church. And it was cool!

We had lunch in this beautiful building, The Palm House

A shady bench. Scorchio!

We had pre booked tickets for a tour inside the Opera House at 3pm.
Beautiful interior.

Back to our hotel by late afternoon, and later dinner in a restaurant just a short walk away, and enjoyed a colourful sunset as we walked back.

19th JUNE VIENNA TO HAINBURG

Just our luck that today is a public holiday, and everyone decided to go out cycling... or take their clothes off and sit by the river. 😨

We were on cyclepaths the entire way, many of which we originally thought must be old railway lines, since they were so straight. (But they were not, since we had them most days.) We were on Euro Velo route 6.

Crossing the Danube for the first time, as we leave Vienna outskirts.

It was looking fairly blue.😉

We left the Danube here to join more cylepaths,
passing a HUGE oil refinery plant.

That's much more pleasant.

sooooo flat, but excellent paths.

We had a drink at cyclists cafe, just off the path, then at about 16 miles, we arrived at Orth Castle.

Pretty buildings in the village centre.

We just had a short walk around the outside.

Orth Castle

A few miles on, a stop off the impressive Schloss Eckartsau. We had planned to have lunch here, but they had NO savoury offerings. So, lunch was a slice of Applestrudel for me and Cheesecake for John. Not ideal.

Schloss Eckartsau.

Schloss Eckartsau. I don't understand how the can grow
Hydranges in the heat in full sun!

A tour of the village brought us around in a circle, back to where we started 😂, but it was a nice village anyway. Then back onto hot cycle tracks.

hot, hot hot! And no shade.

Alongside some of the tracks, these distinctive Birch trees.

This bridge over the Danube into Hainburg was 1.5 miles long

At last a shady lane as we approached Hainburg.
with a castle on the top of the hill.

Tonight's hotel is an old Monastery.
Very nice.

A stroll to the Danube just 5 mins walk.

Did a "piece to camera" for the film here.

Flood defense barriers.

20th JUNE HAINBURG to BRATISLAVA

Morning view from our room at the Old Monastery

And we're off to ride to Bratislava.

First we crossed back over the long bridge over the Danube, and within half a mile then turned to a new route. (We had a laugh since I pulled over to allow a group of around 8 to pass us as we came off the bridge. They then proceeded to take a wrong turn and ended up back up on the bridge.😂 So within 10 mins they passed us again. 😅)

After a few miles, passing through a small town, we were back into open crop fields, but this time some poppies.

We saw several very neat piles of logs this morning.

We weren't so keen on this gravel track!

Bliss.

We rode past some HUGE fields of sunflowers this morning, but the flowers heads still closed shut. A gorgeous display in about 2 weeks I recon.

Not far now to our stop at Schloss HOFF.

We stopped for a drink at a cafe just outide of Schoss Hoff, and chatted to a Welshman, who was here for his nephews wedding...... at Schloss Hoff this afternoon! A hot day for a wedding!! But a grand venue.

Schloss Hoff

The building was beautiful, but the grounds a bit dull and laid out as they would have been originally for low maintenance.

A visiting group dressed for the occasion,
who must have been boiling! It was 37degrees!

We had done a little climbing up to Schloss Hoff, so enjoyed freewheeling out to join the route once more. And soon another climb . 😂

This was about as bad as the
climbs got on this route.

The ruins of Devin Castle on the hill ahead.

We had a lunch stop here, basically in a car park! Not the best scenery, but after lunch we joined a path alongside the Danube once more, and where we got an enthusiastic wave from the 8 cyclists that we had seen twice this morning, who had gone wrong. We might just have teased them again. 😂

haha Its them again.

Devin Castle Ruins.

More excellent cyclepaths brought us safely into Bratislava, arriving along the river, with views of the UFO Bridge. (Had seen Joanna Lumley talk about it on a programme just last week. A restaurant at the top).

A very contemporary feel to Bratislava as we arrived.

We made it to Bratislava, capital of Slovakia.

The border with Hungary is in the middle of the Danube.

Now to find out hotel..... not quite to easy. Our supplied routes did not included getting us to our specific hotel, which on most occasions was annoying. John had made separate route using Garmin, but they didn't always work. And when you are exhausted with the heat .....not so amusing. But we got there eventually. Very different to last nights Old Monastary. We stayed in the Hotel Saffron, quite a walk outside of the main tourist area.

Trams, buses, cars, but at least we still had a cycle lane... mostly to find out hotel.

We collapse for a couple of hours, and then ventured out to see the sites in the old town. My ankle was playing up (possible from too much walking in Vienna), so I limped into town determined to see it, and of course find a meal.

We had some Sushi at one restauruant, then moved on
for the main course. 😊

The evening light was beautiful, so a few photos before we had our main course.

Musical concert.

We were heading to the Hrad (Castle), but it seemed a lot of climbing
and I decided my ankle wasn't up to it. We abandoned that idea
but would cycle there in the morning. eek!

Our chosen restaurant, where I decided to try the Small Tasting Plate of
traditional food......

Which was dumplings 3 ways.😂😂😂

Finally, "piece to camera" for the film, down by the river, but a bit noisy with traffic.
A good test for my microphone!

21st JUNE BRATISLAVA to MOSONMAGYAROVAR, HUNGARY.

So, as I mentioned, since we didn't walk up to the "White Castle" last night. we cycled there first thing. It was quite tough going, all uphill, no cyclepaths, and I used all the gears I had. Phew! Getting hot already.

On our way up to the Castle before we leave Bratislava.

Finally at the top.

The "UFO" Bridge over the Danube, from the White Castle Bratislava

A steep descent on cobbles to find where our official
route started from.

Excellent cyclepaths once more as we worked our way through the city.

And over the Danube and back into Slovakia. Apollo Bridge.

Cycle cafe coming up. Time for as cuppa.

He takes me to all the best restaurants. 😉😊

Didn't use the drone much, but with no trees to get tangled on,
a good chance to have it ahead for a change.

Drone in Spotlight mode.

We left the route for a short distance and found this little scene.

Still following Route 6

And a right turn to continue our route.

Next fancy drink stop, but we bypassed this one.

Hoping to find a lunch stop in Rajka.

We were talked into this sharing plate. It was meant to be a snack.😖

Not the best afternoon ride, alongside a noisy very straight road

Still alongside a main road.

Bit of nonsense to break the monotomy.
The red poppies a welcome pop of colour.

And still on this loooooongggg straight road (7miles),
but now a splash of purple from the Fiddleneck Crop.

Almost there, at this unpronounceable place we are staying tonight.

And once more, as our official route ended, we had to find our hotel, which once more was more difficult than it should have been.

Looks very nice. This is Hotel Lajta Park, Mosonmagyarovar.

A bit of R&R, then out for a stroll and since it's a small town, took my sketch pad.

Loved that tall chimney.

My chosen subject. 😊

And a pre dinner drink at our hotel, next to the stream
where we were very excited to see an otter swimming towards us....
...... until we were told it was probably a BIG RAT. 😂😖😖😖

A very nice meal at our hotel. We both had delicious soup,
and I opted for Perch. And a traditional sort of sponge dessert to follow.

22nd JUNE MOSONMAGYAROVAR, Hungary to Gyor, Hungary.

There was a destinct perfume in the air at the hotel, which I couldnt place. I googled a photo of one of the trees in flower. It was a Linden Tree. It was also along the streets in "MosonMag", with a very powerful perfume. They are excellent street trees for shade, but the flower is very strong.

Not long after we left the pretty MosonMAG, onto more long straight, rather tedious cycle paths, through non-descript villages.

By mid morning, 3 attempts to find a coffee stop. The first 2 were basically alcohol stores with a couple of tables outside, with men drinking beer from cans. The other was a cafe but full of local men talking in loud voices, so we continued.

more of the same today. A bit dull.

And then we found THIS! lol. A bit over the top pink
but delicious cakes and about 40 different teas to try!

Another few miles on cyclpaths alongside main road, but also more sunflowers crops with just the odd one in flower.

Lots more to come any minutes now!

We had seen lots of this, but it is a lovely site close up.

Coming into Gyor

Rather than get lost again in the heat to find our hotel, we stopped for lunch first, and after yesterday's HUGE sharing plate, I ordered a Chicken Salad. It was ENORMOUS!!.

Gyor is a beautiful town with painted bulidings.
Our hotel is BAROKK HOTEL. Just 10 rooms, and very nice it was too.
We even had a patio door to a roof terrace
(too hot to use of course!)

Some photos from around Gyor in the evening, after it was a tiny bit cooler.

Our hotel also had a cocktail bar, and a glass of Champagne
was on the house for guests. Rude not to!

We had dinner at a restaurant which was closing a little early (it was Monday), and so after one course, moved on to the main square to an Ice Cream cafe.

OMG. Got the portion size wrong again.
That it my Amaretti ice cream, with John's tiny ice cream behind.
( I didn't finish it!)

"Piece to camera" in Gyor.
All the trendy young people are wearing cream and white
this season. My ankle still aching, so couldn't wear my nice new sandals. 😞

23rd JUNE Gyor to Esztergom (via train to Komarom)

A slightly stressful start to our day, since we had to catch a train. This sounds easy, but there are no signs in English here, and our Hungarian is nil! We managed a bit of help eventually, as we waited for the train board to announce our platform. A nightmare then with the bikes to get down and up steps to the correct platform, with panniers adding to the weight. I could NOT have managed that on my own. Seems ridiculous, since the cycle lanes are brilliant, the trains have cycle areas.... but steps to get the trains!! 😡

This Dutchman accosted us to advise him,
He had come to the station the night before, & was still confused about his train.

yeah!!! the right platform at last. Thankfully the train
did not leave for 10 mins after it arrived.

We didn't know that we were supposed to put straps around the bikes,
so they almost fell over until someone explained.

Our train journey was around 30 mins, and by then, it was time for drink.

We crossed the Danube again today for the majority of our ride in Slovakia once more, and only crossed back into Hungary as we came into Eztercom. Slovoakia used Euros, whereas Hungary uses Florins.

We didn't see much of Komarom, other then this cafe stop, before we joined our route out of the town. An elderly gentleman shared our table and got chatting. But our "common" language was French, which was hilarious, since our French is O Level from 50 years ago. 😂 But we think he was suggesting that he would like to invite us to his home not far from the cafe. We weren't sure, but as we left, he seemed disappointed. Think he must have been lonely.... but we had quite a long day ahead, so needed to get moving.

Cafe in Komarom.

A bit more variety to our route today, when not on the straight cycle paths, and I was delighted to spot a Storks nest, actually 2, as we passed through one small town.

Stork's Nest on the telegraph wires! 3 chicks in the nest we thought.
The birds return to the same nest each year. What a strange location to choose.

Not a lot of shade again. Phew!

Alongside the river. Glad to see more cloud cover by now.

The scenery becoming more hilly across the Danube

We found this little pop up lunch place, with
not much on offer.

I ordered 2 x "pattys" expecting either meatballs or
a pasty? they were indescribably bland sort of bread meets scone.
(got that wrong AGAIN!) I was starving.

A pleasant stretch alongside the river after "lunch".

Then back on long straight paths once more.

Desperate for an ice cream to cool us down
this was someones garden with a board outside. It served the purpose.... just.

Combine Harvesters in action as we rode down
several tiny back lanes now.

At the end of the official route as we arrive in Esztergom.

We arrived at the end of our "official" route in Esztergom in 40degrees. 😨. And just when we didn't need it, the route we had hoped to follow took us completely the wrong way. My route suggested we had several miles to go. Eventually I asked a local, if she knew where the Portpbello Hotel was. YES. se replied, just over that bridge. We were about 200 yards away and had round in circles.

Portobello Hotel Esztergom.
Full of kids who must now be on school holidays!!

A bit of cooling off then a gentle limp to dinner. We were too knackered to walk far, other than food tonight. A few restaurants closed, but we found one which was nice with mostly Burgers and Pasta.

Pretty buildings in town tonight again.

I have 2 glasses of wine, since the waitress got my order wrong.
Fixed in 5 mins with a glass of wine to compensate.
(Didn't really need it, but rude not to drink it.😅)

"Piece to camera" as it was getting dark in Esztergom.

24th JUNE ESZTERGOM TO BUDAPEST (Via stain from VAC)

The original route plan today was to cycle to catch 2 ferries enroute to Budapest. However, at our welcome meeting on day one, we were told that the ferry would not be running today. Instead, we were given train tickets for 2.35 at a station in VAC. So, all day we felt slightly under pressure. We had loads of time, but the unknown of the faff at the station was a concern. If we missed the train, we had long wait until the next one. 😖 We would then get off the train in north Budapest, and cycle 7 more miles.

View of the Dome from our bedroom window,
and very happy to see clouds again.

Back over the river into Slovokia as we start today's route.

After a while, we left the riverside and as turned around this
wheat field, still a view to the Dome in the far distance.

Some very uneven track followed which must have been an old railtrack with regular concrete slabs. Thankfully we were soon back on tarmac, but on fairly fast road with traffic, and a few TT riders whizzed passed us too.

Rumbling over the cobbles in this village.

We had a drink at another pop up cafe, and then spent a few minutes sitting by the Danube with a very welcome breeze. Some kids out in canoes.

A pleasant stretch alongside the Danube followed, and then we climbed gently away from river level, still on cyclepaths alongside the main to see the river from a higher elevation.

And then an easy downhill, passing under trees and feeling a little cooler in the shade.

Pleasant scene as we get closer to VAC.

We had lunch at a cafe with lots of beige food on offer.

Our route took us to a small pedestian bridge which was CLOSED! oh no!! Not what you need with a train to catch. We managed to find a detour, and then a cheeky uphill on some cobbles into VAC centre.

Ou est le Gare? 😂😂 We found it, with enough time to bump down steps and carry the bikes up again to the platform. Deja Vous!

And relax! Our train at the platform, but doesnt leave for about 15 mins.
Next stop Budapest.

But we were not arriving in Central Budapest, and still had 7.5 miles to the centre, and our hotel. On this occasion, Google did a brilliant job of finding a route almost all on cyclepaths through Northern Budapest to our hotel.

We rode until about the last 100 yards. Our hotel was between these two beautiful buildings, one of which is the Theatre.

The Budapest City Hotel (NH hotels)
was out accommodation for the next 2 nights.

We made it! 197 miles in rather extreme temperatures of an average of 37 degrees each day. Our average speed was under 10mph, partly because of the heat, and partly because there was no rush to get there. We were on holiday! Every destination was beautiful, just some of the routes in between were a bit repetitive at times. But all in all, a great holiday to see some of the smaller places a lot of tourists wouldn't see. We felt Budapest was just too big!

Final "piece to camera" in Budapest, as the sun is going down.

The following day we spent in Budapest using the Hop on/off Bus the funicular to the Castle, and a short riverboat cruise. Although we still walked about 6 miles. 😱A nice way to end our trip. A few phone photos on our last day.