"You have not seen Scotland until you have seen it from your bike."
That was the conclusion of a friend of mine who had ridden the entire length of Scotland last year, supported by her husband. She started this section at Claonag, so missed our "Day 1". Another friend also rode the Caledonian Way via Arran carrying panniers, with her husband, so also missed our Day 1.
We don't "do" panniers. We contacted Saddle Skedaddle, whom we had used once before on our self guided trip in the Yorkshire Wolds, and who offered a guided / supported holiday option for the Caledonian Way. For months we have been worried about what the weather could be like. 😕
SUNDAY 11TH MAY. TRAVELLING DAY
We had left Berkshire with 2 overnight stops, and arrived in Balloch, near the south end of Loch Lomond, late on Sunday morning to join our tour. As soon as we parked in the free car park, a gentleman asked it we were joining a cycling group? He introduced himself as John, which seemed handy, since my husband is also John. (easy to remember). A few minutes later more cyclists arrived, and 2 more Johns! Was that compulsory on the booking form? 😉 A few more names to remember. Colin, Paul, Mark, Howard, and Gail. Phew, another female! And our 3 guides, Nick, Richard and Ezhil. (We were told to call him EeZee)
With bikes loaded onto a trailer behind the Saddle Skedaddle van, an 8 seater taxi was also used to deliver us all to Campbletown at the southern end of the Mull of Kintyre. A very pleasant 4 hour journey, with lunch stop at Inverary, before we finally drove along the western side of Kintyre, enjoying views to Jura and Islay. With sunshine and blue sky!
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| The Scottish geography can get quite confusing with so many stretches of water. |
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| We're here at last! Craigard House Hotel, Campbeltown. The female taxi driver would now hitch up the bike trailer and head straight back. (to then meet us next week in Inverness) |
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| View from our room. Not too shabby.😊 Before dinner at 7.30, we took a short walk down to the harbour to stretch our legs. Not the best light this evening, but it was warm and dry, so we were very happy. |
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| Cambletown |
A funny thing happened though, which helped with the naming of one of the Johns. John S, didn't actually get his Salmon, so from then on in, he was referred to as "John no-Salmon". 😂 ( John S comes from nr Newbury. We know that area well as we often ride through it. I'm sure we will meet up again. )
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The plan was about 10 miles to coffee stop, at Saddel Bay. The SS van was ahead, parked up with a high viz jacket on a post box! Lead guide Nick opted to drive on the first and last days of our trip. Richard and Ezhil would also do 2 days. There would definitely be an element of competition going on, as we would discover in the coming days, especially when it came to lunch options. 😊
A cheeky climb straight after lunch, with many more undulations as we headed towards the ferry terminal at Claonaig, which is where the smaller ferry runs to Lochranza on the north end of Arran. (And where my parents lived there final years, and are buried there too.) Quite emotional for me passing this point today, and I wondered if they would have believed that I was attempting this ride? 😄
MONDAY 12TH MAY - CAMPBELTOWN TO TARBERT - 44 MILES 4,078 ft !!
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| Setting off for our first ride, weather looking perfect! (Drone shot) |
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| I had noticed on my walk the previous evening, that we would round this hair pin to our first climb. I was worried already! |
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| But once up the first hill, some lovely views to Arran. And look at that tarmac. Not a pothole in sight. |
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| Gail and husband "e-John" on their ebikes following "my John" and guide Richard, not far out of Campbeltown. |
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| Gorgeous light on the water this morning, so stopped for a photo. This meant that I would be at the back. This happened a lot since I always stop for photos. But not a problem, since one guide would always stay at the back. Guide Ezhil was also a keen photographer, so he was happy to stop too. 😊 |
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Photo credit Ehzil
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| Typical of our first morning cycling along the West of Kintyre. Constant ups and downs, a few 14%. EEk! |
A very impressive spread for our first snack stop. Lots of healthy options of fruit etc, as well as lots of naughty options like cake and biscuits. Hot and cold drinks of all varieties.
An optional stop off was suggested, adding a couple of extra miles. Just across the road, a track led to the beach where an Anthony Gormley Statue is on the rocks. We all agreed we were happy to add the extra distance to go to find it. (We were also hoping for a discreet "wild wee" stop). The statue is called "Grip" and was supposed to only be there for a year, but then was purchased and given to the Landmark Trust, so is now permanent, in the grounds of Saddel Castle.
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| The beach where Anthony Gormley statue was on the rocks to our right. (Drone shot) .jpg) |
The statue. Beautiful light on the water. Weren't we lucky.
(Photo credit Ezhil.)
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| Then not so lucky! I had a completely flat tyre as everyone pulled off from our beach stop. Guide Richard and John between then insisted on fixing it. We sent a text message to say we were delayed, which wasn't delivered, since no signal. Never mind, we 3 cycled together for a while. |
We continued several more miles along the coast road as far as Dippen, and then took a left turn slightly inland, away from the village of Carradale. (I had hoped we might visit since I was last there as a 3 year old on holiday as confirmed in our old family cine film.😉)
The weather had turned a bit cooler and windy, as we spotted Nick with the SS van set up for lunch at Grogport Picnic Area.
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| Grogport Picnic Area. Look at the blue tarpaulin blowing in the wind. A very tasty lunch including salads, variety of proteins, cheese, breads, crisps, dips and anything else you could think of. Well done. |
A cheeky climb straight after lunch, with many more undulations as we headed towards the ferry terminal at Claonaig, which is where the smaller ferry runs to Lochranza on the north end of Arran. (And where my parents lived there final years, and are buried there too.) Quite emotional for me passing this point today, and I wondered if they would have believed that I was attempting this ride? 😄
Our route to Tarbert would follow this road, but first another optional detour today, which we all agreed to, was a visit to Skipness Castle further along the coast.
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| Claonaig ferry terminal, just 2 miles to Skipness Castle. |
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| Getting close to Skipness Castle |
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| Wild Garlic lined the driveway entrance to Skipness Castle |
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| Some of the riders climbed the steps of the tower. I was saving my legs knowing what was coming! |
A couple of miles backtracking to where Nick and the SS van were waiting with afternoon tea, on the shore, looking across the Arran.
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| Arran across the water where I spent many holidays visiting parents after they moved there in their retirement. |
A few of the team on our first day captured by Gail / E-John who were always at the front of course!
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| oh look, its uphill! Me and "my" John. |
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| Guide, Richard |
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| Howard |
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| Colin |
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| Guide Ezhil |
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| "Just" John followed by Paul. (Paul didn't feel great and sadly flew home on day 3) |
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| John"no-Salmon" |
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Photo credit Ezhil
Our final few miles on this first day, included a not insignificant climb away from Claonaig, and over the hill into Tarbert.
That final "lump" brought our total ascent today to over 4,000 feet!! I have NEVER even cycled 3,000 feet in one day. I was absolutely knackered!! But I did it. Phew. Maybe tomorrow would be an easier day?
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| Route day 1 Campbletown to Tarbert via Skipness. |
A few photos around Tarbert in the evening after a lovely dinner at The Anchor Hotel, where we were staying overnight.
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| Tarbert Castle, a climb away from the harbour. |
TUESDAY 13TH MAY - TARBERT TO LOCHGILPHEAD - 34 MILES 2,467 ft
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| View from our room this morning. Looking good! |
As our SS guides unlocked all the bikes in the morning, they noticed that John had TWO flat tyres! It seemed to a take a while to fix them, seating in the tyres correctly. But at last we were all ready to set off, leaving Tarbert, on a short section of main road, before joining some very pretty lanes lined with bluebells.
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| Day 2 route. Tarbert to Lochgiphead. |
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| Letting our SS van passed, since of course they need to get ahead to set up our cuppa! |
Some very pretty winding, undulating, quiet roads, with views to our left of the Paps of Jura, before passing this little Hamlet with its RED roof and furniture.
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| Views to Jura. |
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John "no-Salmon" with my John.  Drone followed John and me passing lots of bluebells. The SS Van ahead with our morning cuppa stop.  |
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| Tea stop next to a ruined cottage somewhere on the B8024. |
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| Not too long after our stop, some seals were spotted basking on the rocks. |
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| Just after the Seal Stop. My John had stopped for a different photo, so I carried on without him. Didn't see him for several miles. |
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| Loch Arali? I think. Elevated after a loooooong climb. |
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| lunch stop at the top. Just the job. |
An excellent lunch again prepared today by Ehzil. 😋 A HUGE downhill followed.
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| Enjoyed this section. Freewheeling for ages. |
A short section of main road followed (A83) through Ardrishaig, with Loch Gilp now to our right, before we joined an elevated path alongside the Crinnan Canal, for a mile or so. (A few others had opted to do an off road section, but I preferred tarmac).
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| Crinan Canal path. Brilliant surface. We dropped down off the Canal into Lochgilphead, to wiggle to tonight's hotel, The Empire Travel Lodge. Empire Travel Lodge has a very unique and individual history. The building was originally constructed as the Empire News Theatre for the Empire Exhibition of 1938 in Glasgow. Once the exhibition was closed the Empire News Theatre (one of a very few buildings that survived) was dismantled and re-built in Lochgilphead as the Empire Cinema.   Tonight's Room with a view. Not quite so impressive.😂  sketch book and paints down to the lochside.   Whilst I was painting, John headed off to buy some wine for our meal tonight, which was at an Indian Restaurant, with no alcohol licence. The whole group sat together, as normal. The service was excellent and the food really tasty. WEDNESDAY 14TH MAY - LOCHGILPHEAD TO CONNEL 51.5 MILES 3,707ft I had in mind that today was going to be a flatter day, but somehow we clocked up 3,700 feet! It started nice and flat on the beautiful Crinan Canal as far as Bellanoch.  Crinan Canal leaving Lochgilphead.  but with a blustery wind. Look at that pristine tarmac!  announced he had a soft tyre. 😖 Ehzil was with us, so the others all got ahead.  above the village of Kilmartin. .jpeg) And a few photos by E-John, at Kilmartin.    A nice bit of off road, not too scary., other than a steep drop at the end, to where the SS van was waiting with morning refreshments, complements of Richard today.   John now became known as "Puncture John". He decided to replace the tyre this time. ( he had brought a spare)    Some steep climbs followed, a couple of 14% gradients and my heart sunk as I saw the length of the climb go on and on and on. My legs couldn't keep "turning and burning" as Nick would say. They just burned, but no longer turned. 😖 I only had to walk a matter of a few yards then got back on. It was also very hot again, so I might blame the heat.   to worry about.    This John is "Just John ". He is waving at the drone as it rises up. "E-John" on my left with wife Gail.  After another excellent lunch, we headed towards Taynuilt, which took us through the area called Glen Nant National Forest, with some fabulous old trees along the roadside. And some stunning views too, as we rollercoasted up and down.      gorgeous valley. Strontoller? I think. Ahead was a cattle grid with Highland Coos, so I landed the drone promptly!   We soon spotted the van with afternoon tea supplies. This was a long ride today, so another welcome stop for refreshments. We sat on an old bridge. (I got my drone out for a lovely shot, passing between those sat on the bridge, before a rise. Later I watched it back on my phone. ( so I KNOW I recorded it.). Because the hard drive on the drone was getting full, I transferred some files to my tablet that evening, but seem to have lost quite a few clips. So disappointing!)    finish to the day as we passed through Ardchonnel into Connel   A delicious meal, after which still some beautiful light so sat on the shore to enjoy the sunset. John and Ehzil were there too for some photography, and a local wildlife photographer to see an otter. I set up a timelapse of the sunset for my film. Fabulous ride today.  THURSDAY 15TH MAY - CONNEL TO FORT WILLIAM VIA CORRAN 45 MILES 1,700ft Another beautiful sunny morning as we left Connel. Once over the bridge, we soon joined an old railway line NCR 78, running parallel to the A828 , and later onto a cyclepath alongside the main road.      A turn away from the main road brought us through this beautiful wooded area, towards Barcaldine, continuing to Dallachulish (not Ballachulish.... yet). A bit further and I spotted signs for Port Appin, but we didn't head to the port, where John and I had stayed on previous trip. We did however, pull up for morning cuppa with Castle Stalker in view near Appin.    sent my drone out for a low shot towards the castle.  But my GO PRO battery died 2 seconds later, so I only got the first 2 in the group. Grrrrr. Nick leading.     Steep hairpins bends as we entered the forestry area at Dalnatrat. Glad to get to the top! We then spent a few minutes in a stunning forest before a massive downhill on more hairpins.    Look at that view!   Sign pointing to Duror, and Fort William. (we will take a ferry soon to avoid the main road to Fort William)     (this used to be a ferry crossing)  ... where on earth are we going?  Turned out the planned parking spot was full, and Ezhil used his charm to get permission to park on someones driveway. 😂 Our "hostess" was amazing. She even allowed us to use her loo, and gave her phone number incase SS wanted to plan ahead for another trip. 😇 I heard someone say they would never forget her act of kindness, allowing 12 total strangers to park up for lunch and use her facilities. And soon we made our way to catch the ferry from Corran.   John and I have used it before with our car. The SS van is also on board, with the all important afternoon tea!      First sighting of Ben Nevis   the SS van waiting with the kettle on at the ferry ramp.    Here it comes, on time, but doesn't look big enough, and two more bikes have joined the queue.  Turns out it WASN'T big enough. Richard volunteered to stay behind, and me with him. I was worried since it's a looooog way to peddle to Fort William, and our van had already gone! The captain said he would come back for us.... but when? Next week? 😂 He kept his word and was back about half an hour later. Phew.  Richard and I had an interesting mini tour of some of the backstreets of FW as we couldn't quite find our hotel, but we made it. Nick was waiting with the news that dinner would be served in half an hour. A quick shower then. Sorted. Nice meal again at the Nevis Bank Inn. After dinner John and I took awalk into town to do my "Piece to camera" for my film. Busy, busy roads in FW, but we ended up back at the ferry ramp.  FRIDAY 16TH MAY - FORT WILLIAM TO FORT AUGUSTUS 33 MILES 1,220 feet In theory as easier day ahead, as we started off by riding along the Caledonian Canal, aka the Great Glen Way. Pretty cool in the shade this morning, but quite refreshing. We walked initially in busy FW to cross at a roundabout, and then everyone got on their bikes to leave the main road. I was peddling furiously in a high gear, and my gears wouldn't change. I had taking the battery for my e-gears out last night to recharge, and forgot to put it back in. Agggh. So, I was at the back again within seconds. 😂😔 I had the battery to hand just forget to put it in. I caught them up as we joined the canal path. All nice and easy. I did stop deliberately for a few seconds to let a boat get a little ahead, as I thought it would be more interesting in my "time warp" film. It was a survey boat. And with luck on our side, we would see it again shortly at the entrance to Neptunes Staircase, at the lock system.  On my own again, but I would soon catch them up.  The swing bridge now open, the survey boat, followed by a yacht comes into the first lock.  We spent a few minutes here at Neptune's Staircase.  "E-John" put his drone up at the locks. I didn't want to complicate it by using mine as well.  Once more the Gorse stole the show today.   The rest of the group had long gone, but we knew that teabreak was imminent and we would catch up with them, as we did at Gairlochy. Not the most scenic of our teastop locations, due to works going on, and a diversion in place. BUT Richard appeared from behind the van announcing he had a little surprise this morning. John had hinted that maybe some clotted cream and jam scones might be nice.... and here they were.😂😂😇 I had also asked if poached Salmon would be possible for lunch? And it appeared later, followed by Chocolate fudge cake. (Another request from John. ) Thanks SS!   Leaving the Caledonian Canal at Gairlochy, to climb through the semi permanent detour. (due to forestry works)  The first section was on tarmac, but a steep uphill straight away, for a few minutes. After climbing, we dropped down the shore of Loch Lochy.  Beautiful trees along the edge of Loch Lochy. From shore level, a lot more uphill, much of it on horrible hard work gravel. My gravel bike doesn't have any suspension, so I felt every bump. Then I spotted some hairpins on my Garmin! At least it was a good flat surface for this part on crushed gravel. But great views a the top high above Loch Lochy. And the proof from Gail....  Nick taking the hairpin like a pro.  Howard on his way up. Had to stop for a photo, then got going again.  Much relieved to be at the top!  Ages behind me! 😂😂😂    .jpeg) photo credit Ehzil We are at the top, and now some pretty steep downhill with brakes on most of the way! We ended on some nice shady forest track, arriving back at the canal for lunch. .jpeg) photo credit Ehzil  The big climb today, is the hill behind our lunch stop. Whilst we had lunch, Nick kindly did as few miles of recce to check if the second part of the detour was now avoidable. It was, so back on track for the official route after lunch. A short section further on the canal path, led us into the old railway line of Invergarry, following the shores of Loch Oich. All flat of course, and plenty of shade too.  Loch Oich, Invergarry     Catching up with everyone, as we leave the old railway line  We finished the day back on the Caledonian Canal all the way to Fort Augustus.  Time for a few final photos of the day. I stopped since I loved the ferns.   almost at the Nevis Bank Inn, Fort Augustus. Fort William to Fort Augustus. Another good dinner tonight at a pub on the locks, called the Loch Inn. After which, a short walk to do "piece to camera" for my film. We started out down at Loch Ness, but it was really windy, and my Go Pro camera died once more! (It seems to go from 30% to zero!) So, we walked up to the locks, and hand held the drone instead. 😎  A gorgeous sunny evening at Fort Augustus. That evening, I felt my throat start to burn, and my sinuses painfully blocked too. A rather sleepness night, and felt pretty rubbish in the morning. SATURDAY 17TH MAY - FORT AUGUSTUS TO INVERNESS 33 MILES 2,450ft Today, our final day of riding, would start with a 5 mile climb. I had been dreading this all week, and now wasn't even sure I wanted to try. So tempting to ask for a lift in the van to the top. Nick, had taken orders for "breakfast" hot filled rolls, to be awarded after our climb. .jpg) But first, by way of warm up (and it was windy too) we all rode down to the shore of Loch Ness for a team photo. I asked a tourist to take this. Anne, Ezhil, Howard, Colin, Gail, John S, Mark, Richard, Just John, Puncture John, E-JOhn.  The "Berkshire Johns" I thought that to give myself the best shot at this 5 mile climb, especially not feeling great, I needed to be near the front for as long as possible. I told John to not consider waiting for me, since I knew the back marker would look out for me. Think I got in about 4th position.   My Garmin soon became very colourful, starting with RED. OMG.  Richard, Mark and eJohn leading the way, with me tucked behind to start with.  As it got to 14%, my John passed me and the gap started to widen. At least I couldn't see round the bend to see what was ahead😖  Mark now passes, and look at that hill. It just goes on and on.  Garmin shows I've made it to the top of the FIRST red section, and about it hit a downhill.  agggh. Feeling knackered now and a long way to go.  Almost the top of the second RED section, which was another 14% but peaking at 18%. Do I look absolutely about to die? i was sweltered by now!  so stopped for 30 seconds to tie it round me, as I could see "Just John" catching me up.  He had no route, so asked if the climbing was over yet? I told him no, but that the worst was over... but we promptly hit a short section of megga steep!.😖😂   Well done to those who got up first. e-bike John and Gail first up of course. Sadly no photo of MARK taking 3rd place..  My John up next. Not bad for an old man. 😍Richard and Colin.  Richard and Colin coasting in next.  "Just John" a few yards ahead of me. Well done. 
 Well done John S up next....  Howard with back marker Ezhil. We all made it! As promised drinks and hot breakfast rolls handed out, as well as some other goodies.       Richard and John on our route after the Falls of Foyers.. We had a lovely spot for lunch on this final day at a picnic spot on the edge of Loch Ness, and where I suggested a drone selfie of the whole team, before Nick disappeared with the van.  I asked Ezhil to launch the drone from his hand, which is why he smiling so much 😎  All the Saddle Skedaddle team up front. Ezhil, Richard and Nick.    A couple of beautiful little sections followed getting us off of the B862, before our final descent into Inverness.    Photos by Richard who was leading this section.....    A very pleasant end to the ride, before a busier section on cyclepaths through Inverness, but a CRUEL ending, since our accommodation Loch Ness Guest House, was up even more hills. Just about finished me off!  Final day, Fort Augustus to Inverness A table booked at Encore Restaurant, near the river in Inverness for our final meal together... apart from Breakfast together in Inverness tomorrow. 😂 I was feeling pretty awful now with my cold developing and much relieved that it didn't strike until the end of the holiday. I could NOT have ridden today, certainly not that climb out of Fort Augustus, which would have been such a let down. And thank goodness I didn't pass it on to "Puncture John" at least not until we got home. (He actually cancelled a bike ride when we got back.) 6 days, 243 miles, elevation 15,672 feet. Not a drop of rain, and no midge spray! Absolutely amazing. A huge thanks to the Saddle Skedaddle guides, and to all the back office team should they read this blog. And thanks to our fellow riders for making it such a great week. We laughed a lot. Happy cycling! 😍 |